Putting your boat away for the season? Here’s how to winterize it effectively:

Winterizing your boat is not as hard as some may think. If you have the simple tools, correct fluids, and a little mechanical knowledge, it can all be done in less than 30 minutes! One thing to keep in mind is using the correct additives, cleaners, and safety protocols is crucial to keep your boat going and fire right back up during the spring. Not everyone maintains their investments the same, but I promise if you follow these procedures in no particular order, you will ensure trouble free use when you’re back at the ramp. No one wants to drive to their favorite spot and encounter an issue with their trailer, batteries, or engine. Trust me. Been there, done that. Four hours away from home.

Fuel Stabilizer

There are tons of additives on the market nowadays that will stabilize your fuel during the winter, so it stays fresh and free from any contaminants like water, oil deposits, or lose ignition vapors. My rule of thumb is not to spend a ton of money trying to find the best thing on the shelf, just find something that has been trusted over the years. I tend to run stabilizers all season long, so it has time to run through the engine and into all the internals that need it. This way, no matter when it’s time to store the boat, the stabilizer will be run through and you can simply top off the tank and put it away for the winter. It will prevent fuel gumming, create easy starts, and clean your fuel system in the meantime. STA-BIL 360 Marine is an excellent product. 1 oz treats 10 gallons of fuel. Get the 32 oz container and it’s good for two seasons once it is opened. Just add the recommended amount. There is no harm in adding more, but you’re just wasting more than needed.

Lower Unit Oil

If you live in a cold climate, it’s very important to change your lower unit oil before it gets too cold. This is because if you own an older engine, like mine, water could potentially get into your gear case and slowly start to corrode any internal metal parts. Water mixed with oil is never a good thing. It will wear out seals, prevent proper lubricity of the gears, and when it gets below freezing and your boat is not being used, any water could freeze. In some instances, this has cracked the housing because under expansion, water has nowhere to go. A set of screwdrivers, a quart of marine lower unit oil, a fluid pump, and a drain bucket is all you need. There are plenty of videos out there to follow to build your confidence. Don’t pay for a shop! Just follow your manufacturer recommendations.

Fogging Cylinders

This step may seem a bit extreme for some, but it takes all of a few minutes to complete. Be sure to fog your cylinders before storing your boat. This applies to both the cold season for us up north or those of you in the south. Take the engine cover off and locate your spark plug(s). Take them out and get a fogging oil (STA-BIL again makes a great product) and give it a few short bursts into the cylinders to coat the head of the piston and the cylinder walls. This will help coat the heads so there is no chance of corrosion after sitting for a long period of time. It also helps add lubricity so when you start it up the following spring, there will not be a chance of a “dry start.” It’s not necessary, but when a single can will last you years, it’s cheap insurance.

Batteries

For every angler, your batteries are a vital part of your rig. It’s what powers everything on the boat so don’t skimp on this maintenance. Depending on what batteries you have (flooded, AGM, Gel, or Lithium) each battery will have its own maintenance. I use flooded lead acid due to availability, price, and performance. One thing I do is to make sure the water levels inside the battery are at the optimal levels. For this, you want to use distilled water. Please don’t fill it with hose water! Any contamination inside the battery will greatly shorten its lifespan. Once the season is over, take them out of your boat and bring them inside where it can stay at room temperature. This will prevent freezing and help the battery discharge at appropriate levels. I bought an 8 amp tender at a local sporting goods store and will throw them on the tender at least once a month to keep them at optimum levels. My batteries are going on 4 years old which is the average time you want to look at a replacement, but these steps might get you another year on the water if you fish every weekend and a few days during the week.

Don’t forget the trailer

Older boat trailers seem to reach an age where a lot of people think that just because something bad hasn’t happened, it wouldn’t on a moment’s notice. I replaced one of my rollers this year with a buddy of mine because the old roller was getting old and cracked. Be sure to check these things towards the end of the season too, not just at the beginning of the season. It will potentially save a catastrophe from happening. Also get in the habit of keeping your tires inflated at the proper PSI and lubricate any moving part with a decent spray lube. It will prevent rusting of the metal and allow things to move freely. I normally make sure my bearings are greased, moving parts lubricated, tires inflated, and then check to see if there is any debris attached to the trailer. Seaweed can sometimes hang on for ages- ha. Rip it off and give the trailer a good cleaning.

Grease all pivot points on the engine

This one is simple. Every outboard has grease fittings. You’ll see a few nipples on various parts of your engine. Be sure to have a grease gun ready and some good, name-brand waterproof marine grease. Give each point a pump or two and then turn the engine back and forth to work in the grease. Clean any old grease that may come out after pumping with a rag and get it good and clean.

General Cleaning

It’s easy to get lazy towards the end of the season and who likes cleaning? I don’t mind it, but I don’t want to spend a lot of time doing it. Wipe down your seats, vacuum it out, spray a waterless cleaner like Lucas Slick Mist on the outside of the vessel and give it a good rub down. It helps prevent any build up of minerals on the outside of the boat. If you don’t periodically clean the outside of your boat or if it sits in the water most of the year, you will notice some water staining. It doesn’t hurt anything, it just doesn’t look pretty. We need to not only be good, but look good catching those fish!

If you follow these tips, you will be ready for stress free fishing come springtime at the opener. You won’t have to worry about what you didn’t do the past fall and worry about a list that still needs to be completed before you head out. You’ll have a clean and functional boat that will more than likely start right up like it never missed a beat.

Is there anything anyone does that differs from my list? We’d love to hear from you! Leave us a comment below and help out your fellow anglers.

Remember, never take a day on the water for granted. This is what we live for! Thank you for reading.